Burberry’s Tisci eyes “modern armour” for winter womenswear

Burberry designer Riccardo Tisci appears following the Burberry catwalk show at London Fashion Week in London
FILE PHOTO: Burberry designer Riccardo Tisci appears following the Burberry catwalk show at London Fashion Week in London, Britain, September 16, 2019. REUTERS/Henry Nicholls

April 22, 2021

LONDON (Reuters) – Capes, flags and helmet-like hats dominated the Burberry catwalk on Wednesday in what designer Riccardo Tisci described as a “modern armour” collection for women this winter.

In a runway presentation filmed at the British brand’s flagship London Regent Street store, models strutted in an array of outerwear adorned in faux fur as well as block coloured dresses with fluttering fringes and cape-like sleeves.

There were also tops and skirts with flag intarsias or boldly coloured geometric prints, boxy jackets, fringed shorts and tapered trousers, with cuffs at the ankles.

Tisci, who joined Burberry in 2018, put capes on the back of jackets, dresses and coats – including the label’s trademark trench. One version came in shiny gold lame’.

The autumn/winter 2021 womenswear line called “Femininity” paid tribute to “the indomitable force of Mother Nature and the widespread British craft and outdoor movements of the early 20th Century”, according to show notes.

“Throughout my life, my mother has been this incredible force of nature … so, naturally, I have always been drawn to strong women and, in turn, they have also given me the confidence to express my own femininity,” Tisci said.

“I wanted this collection to feel truly emblematic of the power of feminine energy: a modern armour that captures its characteristic fierce aura … This presentation is a love letter to women and a celebration of their incomparable strength.”

Tisci accessorised the looks, which came in mainly earthy tones mixed with dabs of bright colours, with oversized bags, tight stretchy sock boots and hats reminiscent of helmets.

Wednesday’s presentation follows February’s unveiling of Tisci’s first menswear-focused collection for Burberry during London Fashion Week.

(Reporting by Marie-Louise Gumuchian, editing by Estelle Shirbon)